In a fashion landscape where boundaries blur and gender norms shift, Paris Men’s Fashion Week 2023 spotlighted a notable trend: women dominated the men’s runways. This season, the coed approach was unmistakable, with women striding alongside their male counterparts at shows like Amiri and Ami. At Vetements, even the iconic Sharon Stone made an appearance, closing the show in eye-catching thigh-high boots.
The integration of women into men’s fashion is a testament to the industry’s evolving nature. The gender-blurring was a central theme, rather than a peripheral one, within the event, which concluded last Sunday. This shift is mirrored in the advertising realm, as seen in Rihanna’s role in Pharrell Williams’ inaugural Louis Vuitton men’s campaign, where she posed proudly pregnant, surrounded by Vuitton bags.
The Changing Narrative of Gender in Fashion
Joseph McBrinn, an art historian from Ulster University, remarked on the ongoing evolution, noting that the presence of women in menswear collections is no longer surprising to fashion insiders. Fashion has transitioned from rigid gender binaries to a more fluid perception, reflecting the mindset of today’s younger generations.
Despite this evolution, shows like Issey Miyake’s IM Men featured an all-male cast, yet still conveyed an androgynous aura. Andrew Groves, a menswear systems professor at the University of Westminster, noted, “Androgyny only works because people understand what is being crossed.” The real narrative is not about breaking menswear rules but about discovering new freedoms within its confines.
Borrowing Across the Gender Divide
This season, men’s fashion borrowed heavily from women’s styles. Jonathan Anderson of Dior introduced pearls, pink hues, and sheer blouses, exploring his connection with the feminine. At Saint Laurent, men showcased their chests in second-skin tops and donned leather briefs and transparent shoes, echoing styles from the women’s runway. The brand aims to double its men’s sales by 2030, illustrating the commercial drive behind these aesthetic choices.
The merging of men’s and women’s collections into a single, coed runway has become more prevalent, driven by both creativity and convenience. Anthony Vaccarello, who joined Saint Laurent in 2016, initially eliminated the separate menswear show, only to reinstate it in 2018. Similarly, Vetements and Balenciaga combined their shows around the same time.
Economic Influences and Historical Context
Valerie Steele, director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, emphasizes that combining runways is primarily an economic decision rather than a belief in nonbinary genders. A single show is cost-effective and creates a unified media moment, crucial for a luxury market facing pressure. Brands like Ami have expanded from menswear to include womenswear, recognizing the crossover appeal.
The intersection of men’s and women’s fashion is not new. Yves Saint Laurent introduced women’s tailoring in 1966, and figures like David Bowie and Jean Paul Gaultier further blurred these lines in the following decades. Suzy Menkes, a veteran fashion critic, points out that historically, men wore elaborate jewels, a practice narrowed in the 20th century but now reemerging as fashion breaks previous conventions.
Despite these changes, the exchange is not fully reciprocal. While women wearing men’s suits is commonplace, men in skirts or heels still face societal resistance. Joseph McBrinn notes that “Men, he added, ‘can still be seen as deviant’ when they cross the line.”
A Broader Cultural Context
Outside the fashion world, cultural tensions around gender persist. Recent years have seen a rise in online masculinity movements and anti-trans legislation. Brands like J.Crew faced backlash for marketing traditionally feminine colors to men, despite their popularity on runways. Suzy Menkes recalls that postwar Europe solidified certain color norms for men, which are only now being challenged.
As fashion continues to evolve, the debate over androgyny and gender fluidity reflects broader societal changes. While runway trends may fluctuate, the real impact lies in everyday settings, where people increasingly embrace diverse expressions of identity.
