In the serene surroundings of Port Townsend, Washington, a remarkable life came to a peaceful close. Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Mount Everest, passed away at the age of 97, surrounded by family, including his wife, Dianne Roberts.
Whittaker’s 1963 ascent of Everest not only made him a household name but also earned him a personal meeting with President John F. Kennedy. This monumental achievement marked the beginning of a transformative era in American outdoor recreation, setting the stage for his influential career. Prior to his Everest fame, Whittaker served in the Army, where he was drafted during the Korean War and tasked with training elite military units in Colorado’s rugged terrain.
From Boy Scouts to the Army
Born on February 10, 1929, Jim and his twin brother Lou grew up in Seattle’s Arbor Heights neighborhood. Their passion for climbing began with the Boy Scouts and the Mountaineers, a local outdoor club. By age 16, the brothers had already conquered Mount Olympus, the highest peak in Washington’s Olympic Mountains.
Following their early adventures, the twins became mountain guides on Mount Rainier and managed the national park’s guide service from 1949. Between guiding, Whittaker attended Seattle University and sold ski equipment.
During the Korean War, the Whittakers’ climbing expertise led to their transfer to the Army’s Mountain and Cold Weather Training Command at Camp Hale, Colorado, associated with the 10th Mountain Division. Their role was pivotal in preparing soldiers for alpine warfare, teaching vital skills like skiing and ice climbing.
From REI to the Top of the World
After his military service, Whittaker joined REI at the invitation of co-founder Lloyd Anderson. Starting as a one-man operation, he became the cooperative’s first full-time employee in 1955. His leadership ultimately propelled REI’s membership from 250,000 to over 900,000 during his presidency from 1971 to 1979.
Whittaker’s historic Everest climb on May 1, 1963, alongside Sherpa Nawang Gombu, came a decade after Hillary and Norgay’s first ascent. This feat garnered the National Geographic Society’s Hubbard Medal, presented by President Kennedy, and a celebratory parade in Seattle.
Whittaker also guided Sen. Robert F. Kennedy to the summit of Mount Kennedy in 1965, forming a close friendship. He later supported RFK’s 1968 presidential campaign and was present at his bedside when he passed away.
A Legacy Beyond the Summit
Whittaker’s pioneering efforts helped ignite America’s passion for mountaineering and conservation. His advocacy played a crucial role in creating North Cascades National Park and other protected areas.
In 1990, Whittaker organized the Mount Everest International Peace Climb, uniting climbers from the U.S., Soviet Union, and China. This was a symbolic gesture of peace and environmental responsibility, as the team also removed over two tons of trash from Everest.
Jim and Lou Whittaker co-founded Rainier Mountaineering Inc., a leading mountain guide service. Jim’s adventurous spirit extended to sailing, where he competed in the Victoria-to-Maui International Yacht Race twice. Lou Whittaker passed away in 2024 at age 95.
In honor of his contributions, King County declared December 9 as “Jim Whittaker Day.” His legacy lives on through his surviving family, including his wife, Dianne Roberts, and their children, as well as the countless outdoor enthusiasts inspired by his life.
